Team Cooking

The Stupids come as a package.

It's amusing and a bit baffling- both of us are perfectly competent cooks and cook regularly solo and with other people. But for some reason, when we're in the same kitchen, the sparks fly. There's yelling, screaming, profanity, insults, thrown crockery... but somehow, food emerges that's better than what we could do individually.

What's up with THAT?

True, we have some real differences- JD is better at the mechanics and more consistently competent, SY is a bit wilder and has a few more home runs and many more strikeouts. But that doesn't explain it. JD is an omnivore, SY is a vegetarian. That doesn't explain it. JD is a blue collar guy with a pickup truck, SY is a scientist with a Mercedes. Nope, no enlightenment there, either.

I don't know, it's a spooky thing- the first time we cooked together, we seemed to be able to communicate with the verbal shorthand that usually comes from years of familiarity. Now with over a decade of that familiarity, the verbal shorthand has transmuted to non-verbal. An eye gesture at an onion signifying, "You see what I'm cooking here, dice it!" A small twitch of the hand which says, "Not enough salt." A snap of the fingers which says more loudly than words, "Time for another bottle!" It's a good thing, I suppose; it leaves our mouths and speech centers free to come up with deeply personal insults.

We'll figure it out one of these years. And at that moment, we will never be able to cook together again.

Recipe: Saffron and Morel Risotto

We think this is one of the best damned risotto dishes we've ever had. It's very rich. Serves four as a first course.

To the basic recipe add:

1 big pinch of saffron
1/2-1 oz of dried morels
2 tbsp. fresh chopped Italian parsley, with extra for garnish

Soak the morels in 1 cup of hot water until soft (~ 20 minutes). Squeeze the morels dry and cut in half lengthwise. Run them very well under running water. Strain the soaking liquid through a double layer of cheesecloth and a strainer, or through a coffee filter and set aside.

Add the morels when you add the rice. The reserved mushroom soaking water will be the first liquid you add, after the wine. At the same time, add the saffron. Continue to cook as per the recipe. When you add the cheese, also stir in the parsley. Serve and top with a little more parsley and cheese.

If you've got some old red wines that have some mushroomy earthiness to them, this is the dish you want. We've had it with old bordeaux (St. Emilion to be exact) and found it to be a flawless match. An old cabernet or Meritage such as Joseph Phelps Insignia will also work well. We plan on giving it a spin with an old Rioja too.

Risotto Primer

Okay folks, risotto is something that everyone should be able to prepare. It's relatively quick to make (30 minutes start to finish), deliciously creamy, rich, and the variations that can be made are legion. It also is extremely versatile in that it can be a first course, main course or a side dish. Heck, you can even make deep-fried rice balls out of it that have got to be the some of the finest junk food known to man. With minor adjustments, it can be eaten by both vegetarians and meatatarians.

There are a number of different Italian rices that are normally used in risotto including; Arborio, Carnaroli, Baldo, Vialone Nano and Roma . Each is slightly different in how it tastes and what its texture is in the final dish. They all have the same cooking time though. Regular old white rice can be used but frankly, it makes pretty sucky risotto. The rice that is used most often, and can be found the most readily, is Arborio. A short grained rice from Italy, it normally comes in a 1-2 pound box or bag and runs about $5 a pound. Although it is now grown domestically by the likes of Lundberg, it doesn't seem to develop the same creaminess as the imported stuff does.

Cooking risotto is a little more involved than adding rice to boiling water, covering it and turning down heat. It must be stirred almost constantly during the cooking process with liquid added at certain times. Following is the basic recipe and, after that, we'll add the different variations that appear time to time from The Stupids test kitchens.

Morel Basics

We need to note that there are several varieties of morel, all members of the genus morchella (quick side nore: the closely-related genus verpa are not as tasty and have somewhat questionable toxicity). The most common are the esculenta (yellow morel), crassipes (giant morel), deliciosa (white morel), and elata (black morel).

All morchella should be eaten cooked- the raw mushrooms often contain a hydrazine compound which needs to be cooked off. This is also true of the soaking liquid, if you use dried morels.

Dried and fresh morels have distinctly different flavors and textures. The dried morels are intense and meaty, with a subtly chewy texture. The European dried morels are decidedly smoky. Fresh morels are slightly more soft-rubbery with a subtler, earthy aroma and a wonderful "bite" to their texture. My personal preference is to use fresh morels in very simple preparations and to accompany them with white wine.

One of the wonderful things about morels for amateur fungus gatherers is that their appearance is so distinctive; it's pretty hard to find something toxic thatwould fool you into thinking it's a morel. To be certain that you've got a morel, just check that the cap is pitted with distinct concave pits. If the cap closely resembles brain-like bulges, it might be a helvella or gyromita, and should be avoided.

Dried morels should be soaked in warm water with a tiny pinch of salt until soft. Reserve the soaking liquid for stocks- it should be well-filtered before using and NEVER used without cooking. The morels may need a slight rinsing before using, depending on the dirt level. The French dry their morels with smoke, which gives them a distinctly different flavor than domestic ones.

Simplest Prep -This works well with fresh or dried, depending on the wine. Simple sautee the mushrooms in plenty of butter with a little bit of chopped garlic. Cook over a medium-high heat with frequent turns until the mushrooms just begin to give up some juices and wilt very slightly. Stir in a teaspoon or two of chopped Italian parsley. Salt and pepper to taste. This is a wonderful accompaniment to fine old whites; the dish's simplicity allows the wine's complexity to stand out. It won't overwhelm the older wine in the way that strong cheese might. Sauteed fresh morels with a fine old Hermitage blanc is a slice of heaven. This also matches nicely with young, elegant pinots; I love Volnays with fresh morels.

Recipe: Morels en Croute

15-20 dried morels
2 large or three medium shallots, finely diced
1-2 tbs butter
1 tbs olive oil
1 tbs Dijon mustard
1/4 c. red wine (my favorite is a bretty Rhône)
1/4 c. soaking liquid or stock
2 tbs brown roux
2 pinches dried thyme
2 tbs creme fraiche (optional: normal cream)
4 puff pastry shells
3 tbs chopped Italian parsley
salt and pepper

Soak, drain, and rinse (if necessary) the morels. Reserve the soaking liquid. Start baking the puff-pastry according to directions (the Pepperidge Farm shells work fine if you're not inclined to make your own).

Add the olive oil and butter to a medium-hot pan. After the butter foams, then collapses, sautee the shallots until they are translucent. Toss the morels in, then continue sauteeing until the morels are thoroughly cooked and the shallots are barely beginning to brown. Deglaze with the wine and the soaking liquid. Reduce slightly, then stir in the mustard, thyme, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook for another minute or two, then quickly stir in the roux. Reduce the heat to medium-low, and continue stirring until the gravy thickens. Add 1 tbs of the parsley, then add the creme fraiche with continuous stirring. Remove from heat, adjust salt and pepper to taste.

Take the center cap off the baked puff pastry shells, hollow them out, then spoon in the morels with sauce. Sprinkle with the remaining chopped parsley, then put the caps back on. Serve with big reds.

Recipe: Guajillo Sauce

From "Rick Bayless's Mexican Kitchen", a great cookbook.

6 garlic cloves, unpeeled
4 oz dried guajillos
1 tsp dried oregano
1/4 tsp black pepper
1/4 tsp cumin
3-1/2 c stock
1-1/2 tbs olive oil

On a griddle, roast the garlic cloves on all sides until they are soft and there are black spots on the skin. Put aside.

Flay open the guajillos, discard the seeds and stem, then roast them briefly (3-4 seconds) on both sides on the griddle. Use a spatula to press them against the hot surface; they should bubble and discolor a bit. Place the roasted guajillos in a bowl, pour hot water on them to cover, then let them soak for 30 minutes.

Grind the spices and herbs finely. Peel and chop the roasted garlic. Drain the guajillos, discarding the water, then combine them with the spices, the garlic, and 2/3 c of the stock. Puree in a food processor (or with an immersion blender), then strain through medium mesh, using a rubber spatula to squeeze and scrape the strainer.

Heat a 4 qt. saucepan to frying temperature, then add the olive oil. Dump in the paste (careful of splattering!), leaving behind a small trace (1/4 tsp or less). Fry the paste, stirring continuously, for several minutes, until it turns a rich red-brown- use the left-behind paste as a color gauge to see how well-cooked the fried paste is. Then pour in the remaining stock and bring to a low boil. Simmer, partly covered, for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened and coats the back of a spoon.

Leftover sauce is great for plate decoration (I always have a squeeze bottle in the fridge) and as an enchilada sauce base.

Recipe: Aloo Channa Mexicana

I've always been fascinated at the parallels between classic Indian cuisine and regional Mexican. Onion, garlic, cumin, chilie, cilantro, cinnamon, cloves, tomatoes... they all speak Spanish and Hindi. The similarities also involve preparation techniques: the roasting of spices, the layering of ingredients in a sauce. Aloo Channa cooked with onions and tomatoes is typical Northern India n. The guajillos, corn, and chocolate are purely Mexican. Most of the labor goes into the guajillo sauce, which is cooked in a way very similar to curry pastes. I'd also guess that this would work with chunks of cooked birdie substituting for the potatoes.

2 tbs olive oil
1 medium yellow onion
2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, cubed
1 small sweet onion (Maui, Vidalia, Walla-Walla)
1-1/2 cup guajillo sauce (see below)
1-2 tbs sweet Mexican chocolate, crumbled (Abuelita is a common brand)
salt
1-2/3 c cooked garbanzo beans
2 potatoes (preferably Yukon Gold or red waxy), boiled
1 c corn kernels
salt
2-3 tbs chopped cilantro

To a hot saute pan, add the olive oil and onions. Cook, stirring fequently, until onions are medium-light brown. Then add the tomato and continue stirring and cooking until they wilt and brown slightly. Stir in the guajillo sauce, bring to a simmer. Then add the chocolate, and stir until it is well-dispersed. Add the vegetables, then simmer, covered, for about 5 minutes. Adjust salt, remove from heat, and stir in cilantro.

Garnish with strips of roasted green chile and cilantro leaves. Serve with rice and home-made tortillas.

Guajillo Sauce - Taken from "Rick Bayless's Mexican Kitchen", a great cookbook.

6 garlic cloves, unpeeled
4 oz dried guajillos
1 tsp dried oregano
1/4 tsp black pepper
1/4 tsp cumin
3-1/2 c stock
1-1/2 tbs olive oil

On a griddle, roast the garlic cloves on all sides until they are soft and there are black spots on the skin. Put aside.

Flay open the guajillos, discard the seeds and stem, then roast them briefly (3-4 seconds) on both sides on the griddle. Use a spatula to press them against the hot surface; they should bubble and discolor a bit. Place the roasted guajillos in a bowl, pour hot water on them to cover, then let them soak for 30 minutes.

Grind the spices and herbs finely. Peel and chop the roasted garlic. Drain the guajillos, discarding the water, then combine them with the spices, the garlic, and 2/3 c of the stock. Puree in a food processor (or with an immersion blender), then strain through medium mesh, using a rubber spatula to squeeze and scrape the strainer.

Heat a 4 qt. saucepan to frying temperature, then add the olive oil. Dump in the paste (careful of splattering!), leaving behind a small trace (1/4 tsp or less). Fry the paste, stirring continuously, for several minutes, until it turns a rich red-brown- use the left-behind paste as a color gauge to see how well-cooked the fried paste is. Then pour in the remaining stock and bring to a low boil. Simmer, partly covered, for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened and coats the back of a spoon.

Leftover sauce is great for plate decoration (I always have a squeeze bottle in the fridge) and as an enchilada sauce base.

Recipe: Three Vegetarian Tapas

These tapas were inspired by Gerry Dawes, a great writer and connoiseur of Spanish wines. The vegetarian aspect is, for better or worse, my own. These can hardly be called recipes, since they're so simple, but that means that the quality of ingredients is everything.

Tapas #1 Potatoes:

4 medium Yukon Gold potatoes
Spanish extra virgin olive oil (we use a Siurana unfiltered)
salt (we use Fleur de Sel)
fresh ground pepper

Wash the spuds, halve them, then boil until almost but not quite tender. Have them again (to make quarters), toss with oil, and cool a bit (5-10 minutes). Place on a cookie sheet, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then bake at 450º for about 10 minutes, or until they begin to brown.

Tapas #2 Piquillos:

2 jars roasted and peeled Spanish piquillo peppers
2-3 tbs Spanish olive oil
3 cloves garlic (red garlic if possible)
1/2 c oloroso sherry
salt (as above)

After observing the price of the piquillos, pick yourself up off the floor. Peel and slice the garlic thinly.

Cut the piquillos into strips about 3/4" wide. Heat the oil in a saute pan, then add the garlic. Saute until the slices just barely begin to brown, then add the sherry. Flame it and reduce by half. Toss in the piquillo strips, stir, then plate and salt to taste (be VERY sparing). Taste and assure yourself that the price of the peppers was worth it.

Tapas #3 Garbanzos:

8 oz can garbanzos, drained and rinsed OR
1-1/2 c cooked garbanzos, cooled
3 tbs Spanish olive oil
1 sweet onion (we use Walla-Walla when available)
1-2 ripe tomatoes, depending on size
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1/4 c dry white wine
1 tbs fresh rosemary, chopped
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
salt and pepper

While heating the olive oil in a saute pan, peel and slice the onion thinly. Peel and seed the tomatoes, then cut into 3/4" dice. Saute the onion until it barely shows some brown, then add the tomatoes and garlic.

Cook until the tomatoes look wilted, then deglaze with the white wine. Add the herbs and the garbanzos, then cook until the liquid has turned to a syrupy glaze. Remove from heat, drizzle with a bit more olive oil, then salt and pepper to taste. This tapa works very well served over a thick slice of toasted country-style bread.

Recipe: Lentil and Bulgur Salad

Herewith a lentil salad that's got some East Mediterranean Meets West Mediterranean style to it. This was something I threw together recently for some visiting MoCoolers. I thought it was pretty good, and now that I've made it again, I like it just as much. It's relatively wine friendly, incredibly easy to make, and is quite good in the protein department for us anemic vegetarians.

1-1/2 c French green lentils (like Lentilles de Puy)
5 c unsalted water
1-1/2 c dried bulgur (medium to coarse)
1-1/2 c boiling roasted vegetable stock
1 large (or two medium) red onion
1-1/2 c chopped Italian parsley (not packed)
1/3 c sweet red wine vinegar (see note below)
1/2 c Extra Virgin olive oil, or more to taste
pepper
salt
1 lemon

Boil the lentils in the unsalted water for 20 minutes or until al dente. Drain and allow to partially cool; you can reserve the lentil water to add to stocks for earthiness and body. Put the bulgar in a bowl, add the boiling stock, then cover and let sit for 30 minutes. Peel and dice the onion. I like the dice to be 6 mm or so, but this is a textural element you can play with. In a large bowl, toss together the lentils, the bulgar, the onion, and the parsley with the red wine vinegar and the oil. Squeeze the lemon and toss the juice in, along with a few healthy pinches of pepper. Mix well. Taste and adjust salt; there should be enough of the vinegar to be a barely discernable sweet-and-sour element, but it should be just an accent to the earthiness of the salad ingredients. Add more olive oil if you want to pump up the richness. Let the salad sit, covered, for at least an hour, then serve in a large bowl, family style.

Note on the vinegar: I used a product called Chateau St. Julien Red Wine Vinegar, in honor of the visitors from Michigan. It's basically a light red wine vinegar tempered with some red wine, white grape juice, and sugar.

Recipe: Matar Panir (Peas and Cheese in Tomato Sauce)

I love how certain combinations of ingredients pop up in diverse cuisines- in this case, if I said, "tomato sauce and cheese," you'd probably think Italian. But it's also the heart of a classic Indian dish from the Punjab region, Matar Panir, a restaurant staple. This is a very simple version that rivals the best I've tasted. It may seem intimidating to make your own cheese, and the recipe reads long, but it's really pretty easy and definitely worth the effort.

6 c whole milk
3/4 c plain yoghurt
1 lemon
1 c neutral vegetable oil (e.g., canola)
1-2 tbs ghee
1 medium onion, finely minced
1 tbs fresh ginger, finely minced
3 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/2 c tomato, finely chopped (out of season, use crushed San Marzano or Muir Glen)
1 tsp ground coriander
1/4 tsp turmeric
1 tsp garam masala
1 tsp salt cayenne to taste
1 cup peas
2-3 tbs cilantro, chiffonade

First, prepare the panir. Heat the milk, stirring occasionally to keep it from scorching. Juice the lemon and mix the juice thoroughly with the yoghurt. When the milk comes to a frothy, rising boil, turn off the flame and stir in the yoghurt/lemon mixture. You should see curdling begin in just a few seconds; if the milk is stubborn, heat it again, then remove from flame and add a little more lemon juice if necessary. Strain the cheese curds through a doubled layer of cheesecloth, reserving the whey.

After the curds have drained for a few minutes, tie the cheesecloth into a ball, putting pressure on the cheese. Let the ball hang and drain for an hour. Remove the cheese from the cloth and knead it for a few minutes until it hangs together. It needn't be as "tight" as a mozzerella ball- it will remain somewhat crumbly. Pat into a 1/2 inch thick disc, then fold it up in some cheesecloth and weight it for a few hours.

Put the cup of oil into a small saucepan, then heat it to medium-hot (bubbles should come off a wooden chopstick or skewer stuck in the oil, but it shouldn't be so hot as to roil; 350 degrees F is about right). Cut the panir into 1/2 to 3/4 inch chunks, then fry them a few at a time until covered with brown spots. This should take about 30 seconds for each batch. Put the chunks aside to drain and cool.

Now, the tomato sauce. Add a tablespoon of the used canola oil and a tablespoon of ghee to a pan over medium-low heat. Toss in the onions and sautee with stirring until they're medium brown- get a good caramelization, but it shouldn't be as far gone as for onion soup. The onions will first absorb the oil, then as they start to brown, they release it. If it all still looks too dry, add the other tablespoon of ghee. Add the ginger and sautee with stirring a few more minutes. Add the garlic, and sautee with stirring until the garlic smell is slapping you upside the head, maybe 20-30 seconds. Then add the tomato and sautee with stirring until the tomatoes have started to brown, have largely collapsed, and are starting to dry out.

Stir in the coriander, and wait for the smell to hit you, maybe 10 seconds. Then stir in the turmeric and blend thoroughly. Add the garam masala (use a good one!) and stir until the smell hits you. Then add salt, cayenne, and stir in 1/2 cup of the reserved whey. Simmer for 5 minutes or so, then add the peas and one cup of the whey. Bring back to a simmer, then cover and cook until the peas are almost done (NB: If fresh peas are out of season, use frozen and reduce cooking time). If the sauce looks like it's drying out, add a little more whey. Stir in panir chunks, then cover and simmer for five more minutes. Uncover, check seasoning (add salt or cayenne if necessary- if it's too sharp, a little sugar will tame it), stir in half the cilantro, then serve over basmati rice. Garnish with the remaining cilantro.

Recipe: Pan Roasted Brussels Sprouts

I hated Brussels Sprouts, hated 'em. Then I had the oven-roasted version at Lulu's in San Francisco. Consider me converted. This is a stovetop variation that is a little more intense. Serves four as a side dish.

1 - 1 ½ lbs - Brussels sprouts (you want the small, hard ones)
2-3 tbsp - Olive oil
2 tbsp - Balsamic vinegar
¼ cup - butter
½ cup - chopped pecans

Trim off the outer leaves of the Brussels sprouts. In a heavy pan (cast iron works very well), sauté the sprouts on medium-high heat in olive oil until they start to brown. Add the balsamic vinegar, turn the heat to low and cover. After a couple of minutes, add ¼ cup of water. Cook until the sprouts start to soften, ~ 8-10 minutes. They should brown but not burn. Turn the heat back up to high, add the butter and the pecans. Saute for a minute or so, until the pecans are lightly toasted. Add salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

For the meat averse out there, this and the Spiced Rice make a good meal.

Recipe: Collard Greens with Red Onions

Very robust. Serves four as a side dish.

2 - bunches collard greens, washed with the stem removed and cut crosswise into 1" strips (Make sure you get most of it, it's very tough)
1 - large red onion, peeled, halved and sliced ½" thick
4 - cloves garlic, peeled and sliced thin
½ cup - chicken or vegetable stock
Olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Saute the onions in olive oil over medium - high heat until they start to brown and turn translucent, about 7-8 minutes. Add the collard greens, toss with the onions and cover the pan. Turn down the heat to medium. After five minutes, add the garlic and stock. Add salt and pepper to taste. Let this cook for about 15 minutes, being careful not to burn it. You may need to add a little more stock. The dish is done when the greens are tender and slightly caramelized.

This dish will stand up to just about any red wine. For you meat haters out there, this and the Spiced Rice would make a great meal.

Recipe: Our Favorite Frittata

We eat the hell out of these things. Serves 4-6.

1 dz - eggs
¾ lb - Yukon Gold potatoes
2 lb - yellow onions
½ oz - dried Morel mushrooms, rehydrated in hot water
¾ lb - asparagus or green beans, cleaned and cut into bite sized pieces
½ lb - grated Raclette cheese (found in your better cheese shops)
½ lb - Old Fashioned cream cheese
¼ cup - chopped flat leaf parsley
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
Whip the eggs with a little water.

Peel, cut in half and slice the onions very thinly. Saute in olive oil over low heat for 45 minutes to an hour, until the onions are caremelized, soft and the flavor is concentrated. While they're cooking, occasionally deglaze the pan with a little white wine or dry sherry. Adding a sprinkle of Herbs de Provence adds a nice touch also.

Slice the potatoes 1/8" thick and saute in olive oil until nicely browned and tender. Season with a little salt and pepper.

Blanch the green beans/asparagus in salted water for 2-3 minutes. Refresh in ice water.

Rinse the rehydrated morels well. Chop medium fine and saute in a little red wine for a couple of minutes.

Okay, now that we have the parts prepared, lets assemble the sucker:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Liberally coat a 12" oven proof saute pan with olive oil and place over medium high heat. Layer the potatoes, onions and green beans/asparagus in the pan. Sprinkle with the morels and parsley. Dollop with the cream cheese. Pour the eggs over the top. When there is a layer of cooked eggs around the edge, place the pan in the oven for ~ eight minutes. When the eggs are almost cooked but still a little runny in the middle, sprinkle with the Raclette cheese and stick the pan under to broiler. When the cheese is bubble and brown, remove from the oven.

Let the dish sit for a couple of minutes. Slice the frittata into serving size pieces and plate. Drizzle with your best extra virgin olive oil and a little balsamic syrup* (or a really old balsamic vinegar, if you have some).

This is a multi functional dish when it comes to wine. Syrah is our favorite but it also goes well with Pinot. On the white side, Sauvignon Blanc works well. If you like, replace the cream cheese with goat cheese and go with a more austere white.

* Balsamic syrup - Simmer a quart of balsamic vinegar and a tablespoon of brown sugar until you have a little less than a cup left and it has taken on a syrup consistency. Make sure you don't burn it. This will keep in the fridge for several weeks.

Recipe: Cannelini Beans with Swiss Chard

Cannelini beans are the king of the dried bean world. They're a white kidney bean that cooks up very tender and have great flavor. Recipe serves 6-8 as a side dish.

1 lb - dried Cannelini beans
½ cup - diced yellow onions
½ cup - diced carrots
½ cup - diced celery
5 - unpeeled garlic cloves
A bouquet garni with fresh thyme, bay leaves and parsley
2 - bunches Swiss chard washed and cut crosswise into 1" strips
3 - garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
Salt and pepper
Olive oil

Follow the soaking directions on the bean package, or, if you like your beans fully farted, don't bother soaking them first. Be aware that this adds some time to the cooking process.

Sweat the onions, carrots and celery in olive oil in a pot big enough to hold the beans and enough water to cover by at least an inch. Add the beans, unpeeled garlic cloves and the bouquet garni. Add a few grinds from the pepper grinder. Add enough water to cover the beans by an inch or two. Bring the beans to a boil. Partially cover and turn down to a simmer. Don't let water level drop too low or you will have some undercooked beans in your final dish. Cannelini beans cook faster than your average dry bean, so start checking them for doneness after about 30 minutes. Don't add salt until the beans are done.

While the beans are cooking, saute the Swiss Chard and the chopped garlic for a few minutes. Add a little white wine or water, cover, and cook until the chard is tender.

Mix the chard into the beans, adjust the seasoning and serve. Drizzle with your best extra virgin olive oil just before serving.

This is also a good stand alone dish for the veggie only folks.

Recipe: Balsamic Syrup

Simmer a quart of balsamic vinegar and a tablespoon of brown sugar until you have a little less than a cup left and it has taken on a syrup consistency. Make sure you don't burn it.

This will keep in the fridge for several weeks.

Recipe: Basic Risotto

Recipe serves four as a first course.

1 small yellow onion, diced fairly fine
1 cup Arborio rice
2-3 tbsp of good olive oil
1/2 cup white wine
5 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1-2 tbsp butter, or high quality extra virgin olive oil (optional)
1/4 cup freshly grated Reggiano parmesan, plus extra for garnishing
Salt and pepper

The stock needs to be in a separate pot on the stove at a strong simmer (A note on canned stocks, they can be awfully salty and can even impart a metallic taste to your dish. We usually cut it one to one with water. But try to use a "real" stock, which rises in importance when the risotto is a simple one). You'll need a ladle to add the stock with and a strong spoon or spatula to stir the risotto with. The pot for the risotto needs to be large (5 quart will work well) and as heavy as possible. An enameled Le Crueset pot works very well, as will most heavy stock pots.

Sweat the onions in the olive oil over medium high heat until translucent, about 5-8 minutes. Don't let them brown. Add the rice and continue to stir for a couple of minutes until the grains are all coated with oil and are starting to get translucent.

At this point, add the wine and stir the rice. As the liquid is absorbed and the rice stops sticking to the side of the pot, add a cup of the stock. Continue stirring, adding liquid as needed. As the rice gets closer to being done, the liquid will not absorb as quickly, so you will need to decrease the amount you put in each time. After 18-20 minutes, taste the rice for doneness. It should be al dente but not crunchy and not mushy. If it's not done, cook it a couple of minutes longer and test it again. If it's mushy, better luck next time.

At the point it reaches al dente, stir in the butter (optional) and parmesan, and adjust the seasoning. You won't need very much pepper, if any. The rice should be smooth and creamy without being soupy or clumpy. Serve it up and top it with the reserved cheese.

With the basic technique mastered (it may take a ruined dish or two, but you'll get it), you can do all sorts of variations to suit ingredients on hand. One trick is to precook the added ingredients, then add them near the end. This makes the timing of the dish much simpler.

Recipe: Crème Brulee

The classic. We happen to like this rendition. Recipe serves six.

6 - egg yolks
½ cup - sugar
4 cups - Whipping cream
2 - split vanilla beans

Additional sugar to form the crust. Raw sugar works the best. Don't use brown sugar though, it burns too easily.

Heat the cream and the vanilla beans until it just reaches the boil. Don't let it boil over though, or you'll have one hell of a mess (been there, done that).

While the cream is heating, beat the egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl big enough to hold all ingredients until you can form ribbons. When the cream is just starting to boil, take it off the heat. Temper the eggs by whisking in a cup of the hot cream (careful, or you'll have sweet scrambled eggs). Slowly mix in the rest of the cream. Put the bowl in an ice bath and continue to stir until the cream has cooled down to where it is warm but not hot. The mixture at this point should coat the back of a spoon.

Strain the mixture into the six serving bowls. The serving bowls you use are dependent on what you want your cream/crust ration to be. More cream, use individual souffle' bowls. More crust, use wider, shallower bowls. Place the bowls in a Bane Marie with hot water and put into a preheated, 325 degree oven. Bake for ~ 25 minutes. The custard should be set but still a little jiggly in the middle. Place the custards on a tray, cover and cool in the refrigerator for at least eight hours.

Just before service, sprinkle a tablespoon or two of sugar on each custard (depends on the size of the bowl). Tilt the bowls so that the sugar covers evenly. Pour off the excess. Brown the top of the custard with a propane torch, or under the broiler. Be careful not to burn the sugar (the torch is by far the best way to do this). Garnish with a mint leaf, a berry or two, or nothing at all.

The classic match is Sauterne. If the wine isn't sweet enough, go with coffee.

Pizza Margharita

Recipe: Gorgonzola with Honey

Utter, spectacular simplicity. JD first had this at Rose Pistola at a dinner for "The Bob."

1 oz - Really good gorgonzola cheese per person. A "Mountain Gorgonzola" adds an awesome nuttiness
The best honey you can find

Cut the cheese (come on, grow up wouldja!?!?) into sticks. Place two on a plate in some kind of fancy arrangement. Drizzle with the honey and serve. See? Utter simplicity. A little goes a very long way.

Although we first had this served with an old port (great match), it screams out for a sticky white with some acidity to cut through the richness of the cheese. Alsatian VT's and SGN's work well as do German BA's and TBA's. A sweet Vouvray also shines.

Recipe: Crostada Salad with Carmelized Pears and Walnuts

We shamelessly stole this one from the fabulous Emilio's Restaurant in Santa Barbara (HIGHLY recommended!). They didn't exactly GIVE us the recipe, but we ate it about six hundred times, then went through variation after variation in our test kitchen until we thought we had it down pretty well. Our wives got mightily sick of goat cheese croutons in various states of untidiness... Recipe serves eight.

2 pears (firm and almost ripe is best)
2 tbs butter
1 tbs sugar
3 tbs white wine
3 sheets phyllo
1 lb medium-soft goat cheese
1/2 c shelled walnuts (or pecans)
1/4 c rice vinegar
3 tbs white wine vinegar
1/2 c walnut oil or light olive oil
1-2 cloves garlic, finely minced
salt and pepper
6-8 cups mixed baby salad greens
2-3 tbs olive oil

Peel and core the pears, then cut into 1/2" dice. Melt the butter in a saute pan over medium heat, then add the pears and sugar. Saute, with frequent stirring, until the pears start to caramelize a bit, then deglaze with the white wine. Reduce until the pears are just glazed, then remove from heat and cool.

Cut the phyllo into long, thin strips (chiffonade). What works well and saves fingers is the spaghetti cutter on pasta machines. Form the goat cheese into eight hockey pucks. Wrap each puck in a nest of phyllos strips - the pucks should now look like light shredded wheat. Place them on an oiled baking sheet and put aside. Preheat a broiler.

In a dry pan or toaster oven, lightly toast the walnuts, then set aside to cool. Whisk together the two vinegars, the walnut oil, garlic, and a pinch of salt and pepper to taste. Toss the greens with the dressing. Distribute among the 8 plates; on each plate, spoon the caramelized pears and walnuts around the outside of the greens.

Brush the phyllo/cheese hockey pucks with olive oil (an aerosol sprayer also works well), then pop under the broiler until lightly browned. Turn them over and brown the other side. Place on the center of the greens and serve immediately.

This salad is awesome with a crisp chardonnay like a Macon or Chablis. It even worked well (maybe better than well!) with a '91 Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet.

Recipe: Roasted Beets, Green Beans and Fennel Salad

The crispness and freshness of the green beans and the fennel offset the sweet flavor of the beets. Serves four.

1 - bunch of beets, trimmed and washed but not peeled
½ lb - fresh green beans. Make sure you don't get the rubbery ones
1 - small fennel bulb

Wrap the beets in aluminum foil and roast in a 350 degree oven for an hour or until they start to soften.

Trim the green beans and blanch in salted water. Refresh in icewater and cut into bite size pieces.

Finely shred or julienne the fennel bulb.

Toss the veggies with the following vinegarette:

½ cup - of your best olive oil
¼ cup - rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp - balsamic vinegar
½ tsp - Herbs de Provence
1-2 tsp - sugar or honey
Salt and pepper to taste
Whisk all the ingredients together, and adjust the seasoning.

Divide the salad onto four plates, drizzle with a little balsamic syrup and olive oil, and serve. Whites with a touch of residual sugar are a great match for the sweetness of the beets. Try an off-dry Vouvray or Riesling.